Why lunch, always

Thali kitchens cook in the morning for the midday rush. Evening service is often the same food, reheated. Locals eat at one; visitors turn up at eight and then wonder what the fuss was about.

Gujarati and Rajasthani

The Gujarati plate is sweet, sour and relentless, with servers refilling faster than most people can eat. The Rajasthani version is heavier and built for a dry climate, leaning on ghee, gram flour and dried vegetables.

The coastal plates

Malvani and Mangalorean thalis put fish at the centre and use coconut and kokum instead of cream and tomato. Ask what came in that morning rather than ordering from the menu.

Ordering without the tourist markup

Skip anything described as a royal or special thali, which usually means the same food with paneer added and the price doubled. The standard plate is the one the kitchen is proud of.