The rain shadow trick
Ladakh and Spiti sit behind the Himalaya and get almost none of the monsoon. They are dry, clear and open exactly when the rest of the country is flooded, which is why July and August are their busiest months.
Where rain improves the place
The Western Ghats and Meghalaya are built for it. Waterfalls that are trickles in April run properly, the light is soft, and prices outside the few famous towns drop sharply.
Accept that you will be wet. Plan short walks and long meals rather than full-day itineraries.
What actually goes wrong
Landslides close hill roads with no notice, and a four-hour drive becomes a twelve-hour detour. Build a spare day into any monsoon itinerary that involves mountains, and never book a flight for the evening you come down.
Booking rules
Take refundable rates, which cost a little more and are worth it. Check whether the property has a generator, because power cuts are routine.
